Welcome!

Welcome to the Lambeth Horticultural Society  

For more than a century, gardeners of all ages and skill levels have come together at the Lambeth Horticultural Society to learn, grow, and share the joy of friendship, creating beauty and caring for the environment. 

Whether you’re an experienced gardener or just beginning your journey, you’ll find a warm, welcoming place here — a place to meet new people, discover new skills, an opportunity to expand your creativity, and share your interest and passion for the natural world. Membership will earn you a wealth of benefits at an annual low cost. 

🌸Why Join a Horticultural Society?

🌱 1. To Learn and Grow 

    • Monthly speakers, hands-on workshops, demos
    • Let your creative side flow in floral design and friendly competitions
    • Learn new skills and gain knowledge from experienced gardeners
    • Share plants, bulbs and seeds
    • Local expertise in soil, pests, native plants, design, vegetables, and more
    • Contribute to the beautification of the community where you live and work
    • New gardeners gain confidence; seasoned gardeners gain inspiration
    • Members enjoy discounts at Garden Centres and Nurseries

🌼 2. To Connect With Like‑Minded People

      • To belong to a local non-profit organization
      • Shared passion for plants and nature
      • Social events, garden tours, flower shows, bus trips
      • A place where members feel understood and encouraged
      • Opportunity to volunteer where your efforts are appreciated and make a difference

 

A Little Bit of History …………  The Lambeth Horticultural Society was formed officially in 1975.   Prior to that it operated under the title of The Lambeth Garden Club which was organized in 1954-55.   In August 1975, the Executive Board of the garden club began the process of moving its club into a branch of the Ontario Horticultural Association.  Quite the process, however, it resulted in what is known today as the Lambeth Horticultural Society. 

So come out and get your “Hort” on !!

(That’s short for Horticulture!!)

 

Browse through our website and if you have any questions, please contact us.   inquire@lambethhort.com

 

 

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    Horticultural terminology

    Alba – White
    Alpina – Plant from the mountains
    Canadensis – Native to Canada
    Caerulea – Blue
    Grandiflora – Big flowers
    Japonica – Plant from Japan
    Lutea – Yellow
    Macrophylla – Plant has big leaves
    Maculata – Spotted
    Maritima – Plant from near the sea
    Montana – Plant from the mountains
    Nana – Dwarf
    Occidentalis – Plant from the western hemisphere
    Odorata – Scented
    Officinalis – A plant used as a herb
    Orientalis – Plant from the eastern hemisphere
    Paniculata – Blooming in panicles
    Purpurea – Purple
    Reptans – Creeping
    Rosea – Pink
    Rubrum – Red
    Rugosa – ridged, usually in reference to the leaves
    Scandens – Climbing
    Sinensis – Plant from China
    Stricta – Upright
    Sylvestris – Plant from the forest

     

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    Pesticide allert

     

    ATTENTION ALL GARDENERS!
    Pollinators are the animals that pollinate over 90% of all flowering plants, and primarily include bees, flies, buterlfies, moths, and other insects.  “These beneficial insects are under pressure from loss of habitat, loss of food sources, disease, and pesticides” Pollination Guelph
    According to a recent study by the Friends of the Earth, most of the plants sold at garden centres are contaminated by pesticides called NEONICOTINOIDS.  Neonicotinoids are poisons that impair the nervous system of insects and are linked to the decline of pollinators.  Neonicotinoids permeate all parts of a plant including the nectar and pollen.  Unfortunately, pollinators collect this poisoned nectar and pollen to bring back to others in their hives and dwellings.
    WHAT YOU CAN DO TO HELP:
    Grow bee-friendly plants, preferably native species, in your gardens.
    Ask garden centres to sell neonicotinoid-free vegetable and bedding plants. Let the nursery know you will not buy plants grown with these pesticides.
    More information at the Ontario Beekeepers Association.
    Purchase organic vegetable and bedding plants or grow your plants from untreated seeds for your vegetable and flower gardens.
    Buy organic food whenever possible.  Organic growing methods are much less harmful to pollinators.
    A.C.E. (Advisory committee to the environment) has approached the City of London on providing more forage and habitat areas in park lands and the creation of habitat corridors between forage areas.

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    “Starting From Seed”

    “STARTING FROM SEED”

    Written by our own resident expert Peter Calvert

    It is best to use a plant tray with cell pack inserts and clear plastic top.   Although there are many kinds of soil mix for starting seeds, the best and easiest to work with is “Pro Mix BX”.  In using Pro Mix, use a starting fertilizer with a reading approx 10(N) 52(P)10(K) at 1/4 normal strength and dilute in water.  In a container, mix Pro Mix with enough fertilized water to make it moist but not wet.   Fill the cell pack inserts with the damp Pro Mix and level evenly: do tamp this lightly especially around the perimeter.  Sow the seed according to the instructions on the seed package.  Sow thinly (a ( 3×4 ½”) insert should only have about 50 seeds).   It is most important to take time to see that you space seeds evenly.  Some small seeds like petunias or begonias are difficult to sow but many seed companies sell pelletized seed and these are well worth the extra price.

    Put the seeded insert in 1/4″ fertilized water to let the water percolate up.  As soon as the water starts to show on the top remove and place in the tray with the clear plastic cover and place in light.  Most seeds germinate best at temperature of 80F.  A small thermometer in the tray will assist you in this. The heat can be attained with a heating pad or any other method that will ensure the proper temperature. The seeds need 15 hours of light.  If you use fluorescent lights, the tubes should 7-9″ above the seed insert.  You should not need to add water until after you remove the germinating seeds.  When the seeds germinate and a third leaf is showing, remove the clear plastic cover and grow the plants at a cooler temp. 60-65F.   A fan will also help to circulate the air which will help eliminate disease.  When the seedlings are about 3-4 weeks old, it is time to transplant to individual containers or cell pack inserts.   Stokes Seeds has the best instructions on the seed packages.

    The following chart will give you a time guide to help:

    Variety Start Date Germ. Temp. Germ.Time Seedling Temp Transplant Bloom
    Petunia March 25 80 F 7 days 65 F April 15 June 1
    Bergenia March 25 80 F 16 days 65 F April 25 June 15
    Snap Dragon April  1 75 F 8 days 65 F April 20 May 25
    Salvia March 25 75 F 7 days 65 F April 15 June 10
    Impatiens (temp.critical) April 5 70 – 73F 6 days 65 F April 25 June
    Calendula April  5 70 F 9-13 days 65 F April 25 May 25
    Alyssum April 10 75 F 6 days 65 F May 1 May 5
    Marigold April 15 80 F 4 days 65 F May 1 May 25
    Celosia May 1 80 F 4 days 70 F May 25 June 10
    Coleus April 15 75 F 7 days 65 F May 20 Foliage
    Vinca April 10 80 F 6 days 65 F May 10 June 10
    Zinnia May 1 80 F 5 days 70 F May 20 June 20
    Tomatoes April 25 80 F 8 days 65 F May 5 Outside May 25
    Peppers April 5 75 F 7 days 65 F April 20 June 15
    Cucumbers May 7 70 F 5 days 70 F May 15 June 1

    Young plants must receive lots of light and cool temperatures to prevent them from getting too tall and falling over.   When the weather gets warm in April , place outside on warm days and bring in at night.  Water only when soil appears to be drying.  Fertilize with a water soluble fertilizer, every two weeks, with equal parts N.K.P.   All plants must be hardened outside before planting in the garden.   If you are using a cold frame, plant about 1 week earlier than above.

     

     

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    Links

    Canadian Poisonous Plants
    Ontario Horticultural Association
    Friends of the London Civic Garden Complex
    Nature London (formerly McIlwraith Field Naturalists of London)
    Garden Club of London

    London Middlesex Master Gardeners
    Reforest London

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